Gaza Resist

Mountain villages clutched against canyon walls, clusters of dates weighing heavy in the plantation oases, a ribbon of sand blown across the dunes, a lone camel padding across the limitless interior – these are the kinds of images afforded by the beautiful and enigmatic country of Oman.

In years gone by, Oman was rich with copper and frankincense, and enjoyed an extensive East African empire. Then, in the early 20th century, a deeply conservative ruler, Sultan Said, chose deliberately to isolate the country from the modern world. His son, peace-loving Sultan Qaboos, assumed the throne in 1970 and that date now marks the beginning of the widely celebrated ‘Renaissance’ in which the country has been returned to an age of prosperity and progression.

What makes Oman’s renaissance somewhat unique in the region is that the transformation has been conducted with great sensitivity towards traditional values – there are few high-rise buildings in the capital, Muscat; the country’s heritage of forts (numbering over 2,000) are meticulously restored; ancient crafts like weaving are actively supported. Moreover, traditional Arabian values, such as hospitality and practical piety, are still in evidence making Oman somewhere to experience Islamic culture at its best.

The Syrian Arab Republic revels in its antiquity, having been inhabited for tens of thousands of years – and in the variation and cultural riches that such antiquity has brought it. This is a country that preserves scores of relics documenting the rise and fall of different civilisations, and which continues to welcome such diversity.

Syria was once regarded as a frontier region, bordered to the east by the Arabs and Persians. The Persian invasions were repulsed but Syria eventually fell to the Muslims in the mid-seventh century. From then on, Syria was to be firmly part of the Muslim world, although retaining Christian and Jewish populations. Muslim control of Syria was vital to the defeat of the Christians and their expulsion from Jerusalem. Even when the terrifying force of the 13th century Mongols was unleashed on Syria, their massive Hulagu army was eventually defeated at the Battle of Goliath’s Well – a victory that, in retrospect, must be seen as one of the world’s most decisive military engagements, preventing both the Muslim world – and the Christian one – from certain doom.

Today, Syria’s Islamic identity is as central to the country as its Arab roots. Such doctrine over-spilled into Arab nationalism in the 1950s – indeed, Nasser’s revolution in Egypt prompted Syria to join Egypt in the United Arab Republic. However, the alliance was short-lived, Syria seceding in 1961 to form the Syrian Arab Republic. Since then, Syria has been ruled at the head of a tightly controlled dictatorship. Even when General Hafez al-Assad of the Ba’ath Party (or Arab Socialist Renaissance) died in 2000, and his son Bashar assumed headship, Western hopes that the country would pursue a more pro-Western line proved misguided – in the vocabulary of the US Bush administration, the Syrian Arab Republic is a ‘state of concern’ (one level below the ‘axis of evil’).

Although Syria pulled its forces out of Lebanon in 2005 after being implicated by a UN report for the assassination of former Lebanese premier, Rafik Hariri (Syrian troops have remained there ever since the 1973 Arab-Israeli war, in a (successful) attempt to prevent the expansion of Israel, and to counterbalance Israeli military might in the region), relations with numerous Western states remains fragile.

In short, the Syrian Arab Republic’s long history is littered with dramatic episodes, from being subsumed into past empires (Babylonians, Canaanites, Assyrians, Phoenicians, and so on) to more recent events, such as Napoleon’s campaign in 1799/1800, the Egyptian invasion in the 1830s and the insurrection in 1860-61. However, such battles and scrambles over territory have translated into a catalogue of staggering cities full of stunning monuments, from the entire city of Damascus to the country’s many mosques. The events have also failed to impair the character of the Syrian people who – surprisingly to some – exude friendliness and warmth, and are justly proud of their land.

With a name meaning ‘Two Seas’ it is little wonder that Bahrain, an archipelago of 33 islands in the Gulf, defines itself in relation to the water that surrounds its shallow shores.

Modern developments
Those shallows once harboured a precious trade in pearls; now the same shallows are being reclaimed for ambitious, high profile developments, such as the twin 50-storey towers of Bahrain’s World Trade Centre and the 2,787,000 sq m (30,000,000 sq ft) horseshoe of man-made islands at the southern tip of the country.

Oil wealth
In the middle of Bahrain, not far from where the Formula 1 racetrack now draws the crowds, is the point where in 1932 the Arab world first struck gold – black gold, that is – and oil has been the mainstay of the country ever since. As visitors travel the modest length of Bahrain, visiting the ancient burial mounds, forts, craft markets and potteries, they will run into many reminders of this momentous discovery, not least in the relaxed affluence of Bahrain’s multicultural residents.

Lebanon’s diverse patchwork of Mediterranean-lapped coast, rugged alpine peaks and green, fertile valleys is packed into a parcel of land some 225km (140 miles) long and 46km (29 miles) wide.

Once known as the ‘Paris of the East’, Beirut commands a magnificent position, thrust into the Mediterranean. Behind the city are towering mountains, visible when the traffic haze settles down. The Corniche seafront boasts beaches, restaurants, theatres and a dazzling variety of shops and restaurants.

Beirut suffered greatly from Lebanon’s 16-year civil war, but following an impressive and ongoing process of reconstruction, the city was poised to become one of the most popular tourist and business destinations in the Middle East before the Israeli attacks of 2006.

Outside of the capital, several UNESCO World Heritage Sites await, many of which reflect the country’s various ancient civilizations. Phoenician tombs, Roman temples, Crusader castles and Mamlouk mosques can be found in the cities and ruins of Baalbeck, Byblos and Tyre. The town of Aanjar in the Bekaa Valley contains an Umayyad site from the 8th century – a unique historical example of a commercial centre that was inland. Within the mountainous interior of the Kadisha Valley, ancient monasteries and churches can be seen, including a chapel built into the rock face.

Once an important trading centre of the Roman Empire, and straddling the ancient Holy Land of the world’s three great monotheistic religions, Jordan is a tiny desert kingdom wrapped in history.

Stand on Mt Nebo and survey the land promised to Moses; unwrap a scarf or two at Mukawir, where Salome cast a spell over men in perpetuity; float in the Dead Sea, beside a pillar of salt, reputed to be Lot’s disobedient wife; go just about anywhere in Jordan and you’ll find every stone bares a tale, and those of Madaba’s legendary mosaics tell more tales than most.

Petra, the jewel in the crown of Jordan’s antiquities, is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The magnificent rock-hewn city of the Nabateans has been a favourite destination for Europeans since the 19th century, and at sunset on a winter’s day, when the rose-pink city catches alight, it is easy to see why this enchanting place has charmed generations of visitors.

Travel by 4WD across the deserts of Dubai on an afternoon excursion that takes you sandboarding on the sands and dining under the stars. Heading into the desert is a must-do experience when you’re visiting Dubai.

Zipping along by 4WD, you’ll have several photo stops during an exciting drive across the dunes to your first destination, a camel farm. The drive continues across the desert and you will witness a beautiful desert sunset. It’s one of the highlights of a trip to the Arabian desert.

Upon arrival at your campsite, you have the opportunity to ride on a camel, experience the thrill of sandboarding and try out a henna design on your hands or feet.

After all that activity you will have worked up an appetite, so enjoy a delicious BBQ dinner and a shisha (the famous Arabic water pipe). The evening also includes a belly dancer performing her show around the campfire in the moonlight (except during Ramadan).

Please note: The belly dancer does not perform during Ramadan (approximately mid-September to mid-October) and alcohol will only be served after 7pm.

Iran is located in the Middle East, bounded by Turkmenistan and the Caspian Sea, Afghanistan, Pakistan, the Persian Gulf, the Gulf of Oman, Iraq and Turkey. The centre and east of the country is largely barren desert with mountainous regions in the west. Tehran, the capital, is essentially a busy and modern city, but the best of the old has been preserved.

As one of the first countries to be occupied by the early Islamic armies which came out of Arabia in the seventh century, Iran has a rich and detailed history. The antique sights of Persia, one of the greatest empires of the ancient world, can be witnessed alongside bustling metropolises and vast mountain ranges. Several bazaars are just as old and Iran is the destination for those in search of the most expensive rugs and carpets in the world.

Iran has maintained a distinct cultural identity within the Islamic world by retaining its own language and adhering to the Shi’a interpretation of Islam. As a unique Islamic Republic, Iran is ruled by both supreme leaders and elected presidents.

Forget the 20th-century stereotype of a rich Arab Gulf state, of hastily thrown up tower blocks, chaotic streets and bafflingly tacky urban sculpture: Qatar – or at least the capital, Doha – has metamorphosed into a self-confident, elegant entrepôt that gives the UAE a run for its money.

Occupying a flat peninsula jutting into the oil-rich waters of The Gulf, Qatar is one of the richest per capita countries in the world – a wealth exhibited in high-profile projects, such as the new Museum of Islamic Art, built to house the largest such collection in the world.

With 50% of Qatar’s population living in the capital, the country is a virtual city state.  But for those not content with jogging around Doha’s fine corniche, a string of beaches beckon for rest and recuperation, and the magnificent dunes of Khor al-Adaid help even up the odds between God and Mammon.

There is something epic about Dubai: it’s not just the world’s tallest tower or the first seven-star hotel, the reclaimed islands or the indoor ski slope, it’s the sheer vision of those Emiratis who had the courage and ambition a decade ago to build something extraordinary out of the desert.

Dubai may have taken a knock in the current global recession but nothing will hold this city of the future back for long. Already visitors are streaming through Dubai’s new airport terminal, which houses the world’s largest single floor space, and flocking to Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping centre. Dubai has a mission to be the biggest and the best and the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest tower opened in January 2010, is symbolic of Dubai’s ‘the-sky-is-the-limit’ attitude.

Expatriate workers may pine for home or for the ‘good old days’ before the notorious city traffic, but most visitors find Dubai with its sandy beaches and all-night entertainment an exhilarating experience. Cross the creek on an abra (water taxi), dine underwater at the Atlantis Hotel, or play golf on a desert turned green, and this safe and friendly city of year-round sunny skies will be sure to lure you back.

Muscat City
Muscat is Oman’s financial and trade centre. Hamad bin Said took Muscat as Oman’s capital from Rustaq between 1779–1792 and this has never since been contested. Today, under the leadership of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos, Muscat has improved beyond recognition, but has never lost its pride in its heritage and culture. The capital area is a prime example of intelligent and aesthetic development, blending the ancient and modern.

Nizwa Castle
Set amid a verdant spread of date palms Nizwa Castle is a powerful reminder of the town of Nizwa’s invincibility through turbulent periods in Oman’s long history. The town of Nizwa has a strategic location at the crossroads of vital caravan routes linking interior, Muscat and Dhofar regions. Nizwa was declared the capital of Oman in the 17th century during the reign of Imam Sultan Bin Saif Al-Ya’arubi, who built and used the castle as his headquarters.

The most striking feature of the castle is the central tower–a colossal 150-feet-diameter circular tower soaring 115 feet above the rest of fortification, complete with battlements, turrets, secret shafts, false doors and wells.

Nakhl Castle
Located in Al-Batina region, the castle sets on top of a 200-metre rocky prominance in the foothills of the Western Hajar Mountains, overlooking the extended verdant palm farms of Nakhl countryside which gave the castle its name.

The castle is believed to be dated to pre Islamic period and was restored in the 3rd & 10th century A.H. during the reign of Bani Kharous and Ya’aribah Imams, respectively. The gate, fence and towers were built during the reign of Imam Said bin Sultan in 1834. In 1990, restoration work began, using traditional building materials and period furnishings.

Bahla Castle
Located in Bahla; Ad-Dakhliyah region, the Castle is one of the oldest remaining strongholds in Oman and has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1988.

The Castle is a walled triangular-shaped building, with its wall stretching for 12 Km surrounding the old town of Bahla. The main structures of the Castle are located on a high land in the eastern corner, with some parts are thought dated back to the Pre-Islamic period. The Castle encompasses 132 watchtowers with guardrooms.

Wadi Shab
The Wadi is 76 Km from Qurayyat–Muscat. The road to the wadi dips as it crosses the bed of the ravine and rises steeply on the other side where the houses of Tiwi cling to the cliffs. At the mouth of the wadi is a single beach dotted with fishing boats.

Water flows all year round. The wadi runs through a narrow gorge with date plantations, restful pools and lush vegetation. Oleander bushes attract butterflies and the singing of the birds is delightful.